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By 2g1c2 girls 1 cup

May, 2009:

Pondering Peas and Asparagus Answers

Laurel Grove Farms' booth at Sherwood Farmer's market

Laurel Grove Farms' booth at Sherwood Farmer's Market

Spring is here!

Yes, normally at this point in time I am writing about cooking meat outdoors – Just about what every man is thinking right about now.

But who can ignore the bustling Farmer’s Markets overflowing with nature’s bounty? I am addicted to Farmer’s Markets, by the way – I would have hit my neighborhood one every week without fail if I hadn’t been sent out on the campaign trail last summer. The addiction spreads to gluttony, as I always overbuy. Why get one of something when you can get four? I am learning slowly, and doing my best to be conservative this year…….Except for two things: English Peas and Asparagus.

Westmorland Berry Farm's Asparagus

Westmorland Berry Farm's Asparagus

I have always loved asparagus, as my mother, Debby, cooked it for us often. Peas, however, I have hated with a passion:  Green mush with little or no flavor ended up being just a vehicle for butter and salt. Even the dogs would leave them alone. Until recently, I have avoided peas with the utmost care and diligence.

Fresh Peas from Laurel Grove Farms

Fresh Peas from Laurel Grove Farms

It wasn’t until I tried fresh peas, cooked correctly, that my whole world turned upside-down. How could culinary Hell turn so quickly into Heaven? Of course I have my lovely Wife Leslie to thank for turning me on to them – She loves peas and it used to be one of the only vegetables that I didn’t like (Don’t worry, I have reversed my opinion of Brussels Sprouts as well, but that’s a whole other article).

I’ve lumped these two foods together in one blog for several reasons: They are both fresh in the Spring,  need just a little cooking to get right, will turn mushy and gross when overcooked, and are both green. Ok, who cares about the green part, but I’m serious about the cooking – If you overcook them, you’ll have very unhappy diners that you may very well turn off to these vegetables forever.

Choosing & Prepping Asparagus:
Look for spears that are roughly the same size – I prefer thin ones, but most important, you want consistency: If a bunch has both thick and thin spears, some will cook quicker than others. When they get to the table, some may be undercooked, others overcooked.

If you can, choose spears close to the same size

If you can, choose spears close to the same size

The spears should be firm and not flimsy – Limp asparagus is old and should be avoided. The tips should be tightly closed and the stalks should be dry and not slimy.
Good purveyors will store the spears upright in a bit of water or even crushed ice. This helps keep them fresh and is a hint of what you need to do when you get them home. Keeping asparagus upright in the fridge isn’t a simple task – You can store them flat, with a wet paper towel wrapped around the stems.
Immediately before serving, I give the spears a quick wash and pat dry. The bottom of the stem can be tough and woody, so hold one end in each hand and bend – The spear will snap naturally where it should. If you prefer to have all of your spears the same size, trim after you snap.

Choosing and Prepping Peas:
Pods should be a nice bright green – Avoid any that are yellow, or any other color for that matter! Pods should be tight and plump – Feel free to give them a gentle squeeze or even open one up to take a look – Any purveyor that won’t allow you you check out the goods shouldn’t be frequented. The peas should fill out the pods well and touching or very close to each other.
Keep them cool until ready to cook (if you are like me, you’ll probably snack on some raw! Try adding some raw peas to your next salad).

peasbowl

Peas ready for Shelling

Peas are similar to corn in that their sugars turn to starch the longer they go without cooking – The quicker you eat them, the sweeter they will be.
Before cooking, you’ll need to shell them – This can take a while, but if you have a family, friends, or roommates around, get them involved – Not only will the task go more quickly, but it’s fun! I usually squeeze the pod at the seams until it breaks, then use my fingers to scoop the peas into a colander. After shelling, check to ensure that bits of pod, leaves, etc., haven’t fallen in with the peas. I’ll also give them a quick rinse.

Cooking Either:
The simplest way of cooking both peas and asparagus is blanching  (cooking then cooling quickly). This will ensure that neither are overcooked and each keeps its bright green color.
Bring water to boil in a medium or large saucepan with a bit of salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water nearby, or alternatively, put a colander in the sink and keep some ice cubes at the ready.
Boil the vegetables BRIEFLY – After a minute, grab a spear or pea, blow, and taste. You are looking for each to be just undercooked. This may take a few times to get right, as asparagus thickness varies greatly – Larger ones will take longer. Peas usually take no more than 2 minutes for my taste. Remember, they will continue to cook between your taste and the time you start to cool them, even if it’s just 30 seconds – That’s why you’ll want to pull them off the stove while they are still “al dente.”
Immediately plunge them in the ice water, or into the colander in the sink. If using the latter, run cold water over them and add the reserved ice. The first method is, by far, the best.
After a few minutes, drain and taste – If you did it right each should be perfectly cooked, with a slight snap and bright flavor, and not mushy at all.
If you really must serve them warm, then do it gently – back into the saucepan with cool water and heat until just warm – Do not let them boil again!

Dressing Peas:
Keep it simple – Just a bit of butter or olive oil, maybe some salt and pepper, is all I need. As always, feel free to experiment with what you like, but be careful not to overwhelm the delicate flavor.

aspar

Cold Asparagus

Dressing Asparagus:
Again, simple is better – Olive oil, salt, pepper, maybe some good balsamic vinegar, are nice. You could even use a bit of mustard or any salad dressing that you enjoy. Again (And I’m going to beat this into you!), be careful not to overdress…..

Cooking peas and asparagus simply is a nice way to celebrate the coming of Spring. You can get a little more adventurous, and I will share a few recipes with you soon that will take these vegetables to the next level. In the meantime, enjoy the harvest!

Read or print just the recipe here.

Tommy Teriyaki

Teriyaki Chicken Skewers

Teriyaki Chicken Skewers

I’ve been cooking with Teriyaki sauce since, well, I started cooking. When I lived in California, we would pick up this awesome teriyaki sauce from a place called “The Fish King” and used it on just about everything – it was dark, rich, thick, and delicious.

When I began to smoke meats, after moving to the East Coast, one of my earliest recipes was teriyaki beef jerky. This stuff was good, and the folks at work would pester me every day until I brought in a fresh batch. I had one co-worker who would come to visit, sit down, and dig into the bag like it was a happy meal.

“Bernie, don’t eat it all! Leave some for the rest of us”

“But I missed Lunch!”

The problem with making this recipe so often was the amount of sauce I went through - It still came from The Fish King and I bought it in restaurant-sized tubs. However, since it needed to be refrigerated, it had to be hand-carried across the country. My mom would frequently fly between coasts, but not often enough to keep my teriyaki sauce supply healthy.

The answer was, of course, to try to make the sauce myself. Teriyaki, in it’s simplest form, is soy sauce and sugar. From there, recipes branch out and can include garlic, ginger, sake, mirin (sweet japanese cooking wine), onions, molasses, bourbon, and mustard. I tried just about everything, but ended up reverting to the simplest form: Soy and Sugar.

Add a cup of soy and a cup of brown sugar to a small sauce pan – Simmer gently (really – VERY gently – This can easily boil over, and believe me, you will have a mess on your hands), stirring, until the sauce is reduced to your liking. You can easily make more or less, just start with the ratio of 1:1. Some folks like theirs less sweet, and if you fall into this category, decrease the sugar or increase the amount of soy. A quick note on consistency: I like my teriyaki thick, but if you reduce it too much, it will become unmanageable when cool. Reduce to just BEFORE the desired consistency.

For years I would add minced garlic, but I have stopped doing that lately in favor of grated ginger. You could do both, of course, but I found a trick that you will want to use: Add the ginger AFTER it has cooked, while the sauce is cooling – It tastes fresher this way.

Although this sauce is good on fish and beef, I use it almost exclusively on chicken (although you should try it on Salmon!). Usually, if I am invited to a party and need to bring a dish, I grab some chicken wings (and/or wingettes), some teriyaki, and I’m set – Quick, simple, and yummy. Now many recipes tell you to marinate the chicken in the sauce – Be wary of this, as it can actually turn your chicken rubbery and tough. I usually drop the chicken in some sauce 10-15 minutes before it goes on the grill, just enough to add flavor, but not enough to chemically change the chicken. If you want to use some sauce for dipping, please ensure to save some BEFORE the raw chicken goes in for obvious reasons – You don’t want anyone getting sick. I will, however, give the chicken some quick bastes or baths during cooking, but be sure not to do it too late in the process – You want that sauce to cook properly since it has touched raw poultry.

The photo above is of chicken skewers, which are still easy but require a bit more prep time. They do, however, make a better presentation and also help keep guest’s hands cleaner and not so sticky. I’ll take boneless thighs and cut them into half-inch chunks. Thread these onto skewers so they are touching, but not tightly packed. You can even add pieces of green onion for color or to separate the pieces more. If you use bamboo skewers, soak them in water for a half an hour prior to threading, and grill as soon as possible afterwards – You don’t want the skewers to burn.

Be vigilant when grilling either recipe, or for that matter ANYTHING using this sauce, as the sugar will burn quite quickly. I like a little bit of caramelization, but there is a fine line here – Just use your head.

As usual, feel free to experiment with different flavors in your teriyaki. The basic sauce should keep at least a week, covered tightly in the fridge, but in my house it’s usuallygone long before that. Adding garlic, especially raw, will change that so be sure to smell and taste before you use it. In addition, sweet ingredients, such as mirin, may force you to reduce your sugar, and thick ingredients, like molasses, should shorten your simmering time.

Click here for the above recipe!

No, I’m Not Slacking….

Walla-Wallas!

Walla-Wallas!

….I’m working on the Garden!

Sorry, but the Smoker and Barbie have taken a back seat for a bit – For the last month I have been re-doing the vegetable garden and putting in raised beds:

The New Beds.....
The New Beds…..

Drainage in this space, well, Sucked – So I decided to try something different. However, since it has rained on EVERY ONE OF MY DAYS OFF this month, I’m a bit behind schedule – makes me think I should have built an Ark instead of a bed….

I’ll keep y’all posed.

Tommy